Abstract

"The future of carmine"

Deirdre Moore, European University Institute (deirdremoore@gmail.com)

During the 18th century, Europeans fabricated a bright red dye by mixing a tin mordant with the pulverized bodies of domesticated cochineal insects (Dactylopius coccus). The mixture produced crimson reds that adhered to textiles and were exceptionally light and heat stable over time. This lucrative textile dye monopoly was maintained by the Spanish Empire and depended on the hidden knowledge of indigenous practices and technologies surrounding insect growing in southern Mexico. Cochineal insects evolved to produce carminic acid to repel biological predators; the color attracts humans - when they do not know where the red originates.

In the 21st century, use of cochineal dye still depends on hidden knowledge. Mindful of the deep fears provoked by the proximity of insects to the human body, the manufacturers of food dyes and personal products containing cochineal disguise its insect origins. The dye is hidden under labels such as E-120, carmine, crimson lake and natural red 4. The Lip Maestro Lipstick range from Giorgio Armani which promises “an intense, seductive, illuminating lip stain” contains cochineal listed as CI75470. Armani depends on its customers experiencing the aesthetic of red without the knowledge of its fabrication from insect components. Armani marketers are undoubtedly aware that the feelings of desire evoked by their products could turn to disgust.

The problem has pushed scientists to look to a biosynthetic future beyond the insects. In 2018, scientists genetically engineered the fungus Aspergillus nidulans creating a biosynthetic pathway to produce carminic acid. In 2021 another group of scientists at the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology were able to biosynthesize carminic acid from glucose in engineered Escherichia coli bacterium. Neither of the scientific groups were able to copy the direct pathway used by cochineal insects or discover the exact biochemical process the insects use to make carminic acid.